December 2010; Changilo

The rains came last month with violence. They washed out roads and Fields, drown crops and termites; they cleaned a half year of dust and sweat off the land and up came the bush. Now the rain is settling and doesn't like to work regular hours. Now the days are peaceful, fragrant, and humid.

In between the showers, I visit neighboring farms to discuss organic fertilizers and business plans. The informal talks over cups of monkoyo (a traditional non-alcoholic brew) that take place in the damp and smoky nsakas (outdoor cooking shelters) are a rewarding part of my service. It is clear that several farmers here are putting their knowledge into practice and will be able to continue advancing themselves without help from outside organizations. It is a beautiful thing in Peace Corps to work yourself out of a job and it looks like I'm on the right track. I'm also pumped about my banana tree (pictured) starting to fruit. The trees only produce once and must then be cut down to make room for the succors to grow and mature. I wont be around for another harvest so I've been employing manure tea to bump up the production.

Caterpillars are back! Nest full of Mopeni caterpillars were moved from deep in the bush to certain trees in the village that were marked with an axe to indicate their purpose to passerby. The trees, safe from potential harvest for fuel or construction, provided food for the young caterpillars for all last month. Now that they are being harvested and dried, everyone in the village is enjoying the treat. I have found that they work well in most stir fries when the crunchiness is maintained. They remind me of pistachios but have a distinctly different aftertaste. Did I think that I would have an affinity for caterpillar a year ago? No. But you really have to give these things a try. I've also heard that there are medicinal benefits but sources are conflicted on this one.

I finished December laid up. Having broken the fourth metatarsal on my left foot in a construction accident, I was inclined to forgo travelling for the holiday. I'm not even allowed to go back to my village until late January. I spent Christmas and New Years sitting in various locations around the office with a few friends. B and I have triumphed over the Central province movie collection and become expert cribbage players. I also found this very cool looking insect pretending to be a leaf (pictured). I am frustrated with myself for not being able to get back to Changilo for the December fish harvests but I'm beginning to realize that I needed a break of some kind. I just wish it didn't have to involve my foot.