The Left Virginian: February 2011; Zanzibar

You can order anything in Zanzibar. With programs on auto-pilot and having accrued leave by not traveling over the Christmas holiday, B and I decided to head North and find out if this euphemism had any ring of truth. The largest cultural event in East Africa, the Sauti za Busara music festival, happens to come around in February and we felt that it was as good a time as any to check it out.

Our trip started in Serenje. The Tazara rail line runs between Kapiri Mposhi, Zambia and Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. The line is the result of a Chinese backed development project from the 1970's intended to ease trade between Zambia and Tanzania but much of the service has fallen into disrepair due to inadequate maintenance. The passenger trains are known for their disregard of schedule, random stops, and customer service that leaves much to be desired. This is the perfect mode of transportation for any adventure. We boarded the train in Serenje and crossed into Tanzania the following morning. We rocked through green rolling mountains and through part of the Selous, the train startling giraffes and elephants as they grazed the wilderness.

We pulled into Dar es Salaam on the third night. It was

immediately apparent that we had arrived in a large capital city, heavily influenced by its predominantly Islamic population. The streets were packed with hustlers, the Indian food was amazing, and the harbor was bustling with trade goods. Dar es Salaam is unlike everywhere else I've yet visited in Africa. The heat at night was thick and oppressing but one still felt electrified by all of the activity happening, a different language around each corner.

We took the "fast ferry" (apparently it is faster than the alternative) to Zanzibar island the following day. Two hours out from Dar es Salaam the turquoise water began to thicken with dhow boats fishing and trading. We rounded the island and got our first view of Stonetown, the administrative capital of Zanzibar. Stonetown had been a flourishing trading port for centuries and the dynamic influence of the Arabs, Indians, Portuguese, and British who tried to tame her is visible in the skyline. The architecture of Stonetown is a beautiful amalgam of every culture who ever plied a trade. Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous part of Tanzania and although

technically part of the larger sovereignty, it is largely self governed. This was made abundantly clear by the Zanzibari immigration officials who greeted our ferry and refused to allow several of our party entry to the island. My friends and I were held back because we did not have adequate proof of having ever received the yellow fever vaccine. Peace Corps administered the vaccination before we came to Africa but the WHO cards that documented this were locked in the records room of our Lusaka office. Unfortunately we were unable to reach the Lusaka office due to restrictions on international calls. In the end we agreed that 5,000 shillings (a little over 3.00 USD) each was enough for the immigration officials to go ahead and let it slide this time and we were free to enter this wonderful island.

Fortunately the tourist trade is relatively new and although Zanzibar is considered a premier destination in the Indian Ocean, Stonetown is still a medieval town with deep roots. Many streets are a little over a meter across and none of them follow a straight line. It is an enjoyable afternoon to be lost in Stonetown and walking in circles through nameless cobblestone alleys. One of my favorite aspects of this is the door watching. Most of the doors in Stonetown are ornately carved with beautiful designs in exotic wood. Many of the doors are ancient and have suffered from the elements over the past century or so but I love this place that is so connected to its history that the past still breathes.

During Zanzibar's heyday in the 19th century, the island was home to

sprawling spice plantations that supplied world demand for vanilla, nutmeg, coriander, cinnamon, and saffron. Following the abolition of slavery on the island, many of the plantations faltered and what remains are modern operation that cater to organic markets. Most of the plantations cater to eco-tourists these days and it was relatively easy for us to find a great spot right outside of Stonetown. Our guide had us pick and taste vanilla, curry, and cumin as we wondered the wild looking plantation. We ended up at the ruins of the Sultan's bathhouse nearby and joined a larger group of sight seers heading to see Zanzibar's "slave caves."

Further up-country are a series of caves allegedly used by plantation

owners to smuggle slaves in and out of Zanzibar after the ban was imposed. The caves are still used as a water source by nearby people who avoid going to them alone. We toured the area and then took off for white sandy beaches nearby. Zanzibar is at about 4 degrees latitude and the days can be unbearably hot. Oppressed by the heat, we took off into the waters off Zanzibar's Eastern shoreline and swam with the dhow boats and tropical fishes for a few hours before returning to Stonetown.

Inspired by recommendations from fellow Peace Corps Volunteers in Zambia, we left Stonetown for a few days to visit the small fishing village of Matemwe. The town sits on Zanzibar's East coast and is home to several small lodges including our destination, Ally Keys. The lodge is a picture perfect locale for back packers and is staffed by a group of happy-go-lucky Rastafarians who spend more time hanging out with the guest than stressing about work. The "laid-back" vibe is contagious and it was great to spend a few days not worrying about a thing. Our meals consisted of whatever was caught that morning (either calamari, crab, king fish, octopus, or lobster) and our schedule was non-existent. I'd recommend this place to anyone that finds vacations stressful.

By the weekend it was time to head back to Stonetown to catch the last three nights of the Sauti za Busara music festival. Passes were relatively inexpensive and well worth it to see the wide range of music, crafts, and documentary films being offered. The festival is held in the middle of an old stone fort built by the Portuguese in the 16th century right in Stonetown. Highlights

included bands from Mauritius, Somalia, Mali, Zanzibar's own Bi Kadude, and several films. The music and dancing goes until almost sunrise with locals and people from all over the world gathering to celebrate East African culture. One band from Zambia, Nomakanjani Arts, even invited B, Ashley, and I onstage to show us traditional Zambian dances having noticed our enthusiasm for their performance. To their surprise, we performed the traditional dances without instruction and sang along in fluent Bemba. Although the group was disappointed that their time tested joke that white people can't dance was a flop, they were excited to find out that we lived in Zambia and promised to stay in touch.

The nightlife in Stonetown is vibrant. Alcohol is not widely available outside of those establishments

that cater to tourists but seafood is in abundance. The nightly seafood market at Forodhani gardens is the most conspicuous reminder of the Oceans bounty. Lobster, crab, scallops, clams, octopus, fishes, squid, and shark are just a few of the options available at the extensive open-air spread. Merchants set up tables daily to sell the catch of the day and cook the seafood to order on the spot. Bargaining and taste-test are common as are the cats who keep a watchful eye for anything that falls off the skewer of some unlucky patron. After a year and a half in a land-locked country, we were in heaven.

Zanzibar was amazing. Following the final night of the music festival, we boarded the "fast ferry" back to Dar es Salaam and found our way aboard the Tazara train heading South. We were tired, happy, and inspired by our visit to such a culturally rich place and we all shared the same sentiment: life is good.